ADVENTURES IN TUNISIA WITH ANDY KYRIACOU

** Andy Kyriacou, vocalist with 80’s Pop band Modern Romance, re-visits Tunisia, taking with him intrepid paparazzo, Jules Annan. They were accompanied and guided by the walking Tunisian fact book better known as Moncef Battikh. The primary goal was for Jules to take photos of Andy at various locations for the cover of the long awaited Modern Romance album, titled “Rhythm Is My Lover”, an album which will feature the first newly released, official material since the 80’s. They made several stops, meeting the locals and seeing the country in general, whilst “working hard” to get those special cover shots for the album…

It began as a casual conversation between myself and Moncef, at the London offices of the Tunisian Tourist Board, shortly before a lunch meeting. I was halfway through explaining to him that I was looking for a location for cover photos to be used for the new album the band were releasing. I felt that certain places in Tunisia, like Sidi Bou Said, & Onk Jmel (the Star Wars site), were both ideal, but before I could even finish my sentence I was taken by surprise and indeed, humbled, when he and Director Mounira Ben Cherifa, both agreed to fund a trip to Tunisia for the purposes of a Modern Romance photo shoot! Of course, I think the trip transpired largely due to the fact that I have built up a special rapport with Moncef and have been made to feel like an adopted Tunisian, having already been to the country three times courtesy of the Tourist Board, as well as attending several Tunisian Tourism and Cultural events in London. 

So it was agreed there and then that the trip was indeed going ahead. Plans were quickly drafted so that we could complete the trip before Ramadan and thus, we were booked to fly out a week later. 

Of course, the journalist in me was unable to resist a written summary of the trip, so here we go…

(Sunday)

Our outbound flight was slightly delayed, but once at Tunis airport, we made up the lost time as we were ushered through the Diplomatic Arrivals lane, just as we were on previous occasions – genuine VIP treatment! 

Moncef, our photographer Jules Annan and myself,  arrived at our hotel for the evening in the capital, Tunis. It is no surprise to learn that 20% of Tunisians live in Tunis – it is a thriving city and one which welcomes all races, religions and colours. Our accommodation for the evening, the aptly named Hotel Africa (previously known as the Meridian) is the highest building in Tunisia, boasting 25 storeys. Our rooms were located on the 15^thfloor, and after unpacking and refreshing, the three of us congregated in Moncef’s room. We ordered room service and huddled around a small coffee table, we made our plans for the following morning, picking particular areas where effective photos could be taken for the MR album.

Day 1 (Monday)

Our first day was in Sidi Bou Said and it was here we visited Dar El Annabi.  This is a preserved example of a typical, traditional Tunisian home. Many homes have been transformed into hotels, restaurants or other businesses premises, and as an indication of their previous uses as homes, they utilise the prefix “Dar” before the name. Dar El Annabi however, has been deliberately left intact, as a museum or reminder of what these Dar establishments looked like before their change to commercial usage. Here, the general public can mill around looking at the house and its old contents, and buy mint tea and pastries, to be enjoyed in the marvellous garden or patio. 

Photographer Jules and I both agreed that this was a wonderful setting to take photos for the album, and I quickly slipped into a relatively light suit. However, trying to stay cool (and perspiration free) during this lengthy session was not easy, and I was glad to eventually ditch the suit and go off to lunch. 

We were booked to dine at a restaurant called La Golfe which, as it transpired, was directly on the beach with a superb panoramic view. This is an upmarket restaurant, a fact which is instantly evident by the calibre of expensively-dressed diners.

For our starters, the usual Tunisian suspects were present – olives (cracked-style), bread, and olive oil with harissa (mixed, they create a dip for the bread). This was followed by ojja, a version of ratatouille with an egg in the middle, and a brick d’ouef (crispy, fried pastry roll with a cooked, runny egg and tuna inside).  This may sound like an unusual combination, but it was absolutely scrumptious! 

As for my main dish, although not typically Tunisian, I opted for a fillet steak with a peppered sauce on the side. Of course, as expected in a restaurant of such quality, it was cooked to perfection. Dessert consisted of slices of beautifully fresh melon and watermelon, but rather disappointingly, was followed by a rather timid lemon sorbet, sorely lacking in sharpness. However, it was an excellent meal overall. 

From here, it was on to the airport for our flight to Djerba in the south. Although I had made this journey before, I had forgotten how straightforward and nonsense free the internal flight is. The usual hullabaloo associated with internal flights elsewhere was thankfully, non-existent. 

We arrived at our new digs for the night – the Palm Beach Palace hotel – where I was informed that we would be “sitting in the lap of luxury” in this, one of the best hotels in Tunisia. As it transpired, I was a little disappointed, as Luxury was not the name of a woman in whose lap I would be reclining! However, the hotel itself was indeed sumptuous. I almost felt guilty that I would be staying here.

Note: I did say almost!

Immediately after unpacking and refreshing, we met downstairs at the restaurant, where we were given a table, despite the late hour and the restaurant being officially closed. A meal was cooked exclusively for us – how wonderful when you have government Special Agent Moncef present, aka “Our Man in Djerba”. 

A wonderful pumpkin soup was served to begin with, followed by a fillet steak, medium, precisely as I had requested. The quality wine presented to us was unimpressive to me, as I am teetotal, but Vieux Magon is the most expensive red wine available in Tunisia. At 90 Dinar per bottle (£30), it is not something the average Tunisian (or even Brit!) can afford, but I was assured that it is a fine wine. 

Day 2 (Tuesday) 

After an early breakfast, we met at 8.30 sharp for an immediate getaway. However, I couldn’t help but smile as Moncef, in true Mediterranean/Middle Eastern style, indicated that there was all of a sudden, “no hurry” as we stopped off within minutes of leaving the hotel. It was obvious he had to have his morning coffee, without which I know he cannot function. I had a soft drink, sat back, and appreciated the fact that despite the number of hotels here along the coast (approximately 200), our western lifestyle has not impeded too much on the locals. They still enjoy a rudimentary un-Western lifestyle, where coffee, socialising, and meals with family and friends are still important. I applaud this aspect of the country and hope it will continue. 

We drove to the port of Ajim, a journey taking just over 15 minutes, then made the short trip by ferry to Jorg, arriving at 11.15 am. A three-hour drive then followed, taking us through the occasional village. Much of our trip traversed a barren nothingness – parched hillsides peppered with shrubs and palm trees, and a grey mountainous backdrop. The Teher mountain range kept us company for much of the journey. The Sahara definitely makes its presence known here – taking up 42,000 square kilometres of an area within the country – meaning that one-third of this vast desert is located in Tunisia. 

We passed by the Salt lake of Chott Jerit, where the pools of water changed from green to red, an illusion created by a combination of the sunlight, coupled with your position, i.e. which side of the road you were on – a very strange phenomenon. Shortly afterwards we entered Tozeur region, escorted on our right by the Atlas Mountains. Within 10 minutes or so we hit civilisation in the form of houses, albeit spread quite sporadically, and we had our first sighting of greenery for a significant time. We eventuality entered Tozeur itself (pop. 80, 000) with palms on either side of us, almost acting as a guard of honour to underline the fact that we really were back amongst civilisation. We were near the well-known hotel Dar Tozeur, so popped in for a visit. This wonderful boutique hotel offers seven charming double rooms, took two years to build, and was created by the merging of four houses into one building. If you are thinking of staying in this area, then on first impressions alone I would say that booking a few nights here would be marvellous. The pool area is wonderful, and the indoor streams and plants are very impressive and form an ideal area to sit down for a drink, relax, and I would imagine, make new friends. 

Day 3 (Wednesday) 

In the morning we were driven to Dar Jilani, a house converted into an art studio by Zerria Jilani. This was where Jules would be shooting some more photos, utilising also the outdoor area. Zerria had acquisitioned a couple of instruments which I had requested for today’s photo shoot, but prior to beginning our work he called me over, and with a small pane of glass in his hand, began to create. I suggest you watch the video of this amazing man painting with brushes, but using his bare fingers to apply the paint for much of the work. It is incredible to watch, and I was equally impressed with three elements – the speed, the detail, and of course, the technique.

Showtime over, I put on a suit but soon realised that it would have to be a very quick shoot, as the heat was stifling, and the suit would not take too long to look quite ragged. A very difficult photo session, I must admit. 

Lunch was soon on the agenda. A quick change into some regular attire and off we went, stopping on the way to have a quick look at the 120-year-old Greek Orthodox Church of St. Nicolas. I took the opportunity to light a candle in memory of those killed and injured in the Manchester bombing the previous night, and couldn’t help but realise the irony of my situation – the fact that on my many visits to Tunisia, I was told to be extra vigilant by fellow Brits (and the UK media didn’t help), citing the apparent “danger that is everywhere” in Tunisia. Yet here I was, with no problems at all. There were no potential terrorist threats, and in fact I have never felt safer, yet once again the UK had been under attack. 

From the church we continued to nearby Dar Haroun, a restaurant by the port, complete with a mock-up galleon moored nearby.  The starters flowed in true Tunisian style – brick, prawns in batter, humous, various salads, and something which was new for me – merkez (lamb sausage), along with the obligatory bread. For my main course, I surprised even myself, opting for fish (Sea Bass). Following yesterday’s two fillet steaks, it appeared that for the first time in my life I had overdosed on meat, so the fish was an experimental change for me. However, imagine my confusion as I was eating and it dawned on me that I was in fact, thoroughly enjoying the fish. What a great choice (and a welcome dietary change). Fish, NO meat. Why had I never thought of this “radical” change before? My meal was accompanied by a portion of marvellous fries (the Tunisian oil plays a large part in the flavour), and was washed down with freshly squeezed orange juice – another home-grown product. 

We took to the streets shortly after lunch, burning off a few calories as we walked around the walled market of Houmt Souk, perusing the local goods until it was time for our planned visit to the nearby Crocodile Farm, which houses 700 full-sized beasts, as well as many infants. As one of my favourite wild animals (to observe, not interact with!), I enjoyed this experience thoroughly. They are indeed fearsome predators and I am in awe of their power and single-mindedness. Not everyone’s favourite, but it cannot be denied that they are true survivors – amazing, living dinosaurs. 

Later on, we passed by the synagogue in Ghriba – the oldest synagogue in Africa. Surprisingly, I found that there are two areas on Djerba, in close proximity to each other, each of which is home to a large Greek and Jewish community, respectively. 

We continued our journey, stopping for a drink and a rest at a boutique hotel called Dar Dhiafa, in Hara Zira. The clients who stay here consist of mainly Belgians and Chinese, and with its typical quaint Tunisian features alongside modern amenities, it does do rather well.

Two unique sights are prevalent on the roadside throughout Tunisia, both of which I found amazing and bizarre, but one of which I felt was also, quite dangerous. 

Firstly, there is an abundance of shops (not necessarily butchers or supermarkets) which, along with newspapers, cigarettes, sweets, etc. also sell meat. Stranger than this is the fact that the meat is displayed outside in the form of the suspended heads of camels, goats, etc. sometimes with the whole carcass including the head, swinging in sight of would-be buyers. (The head is a delicacy, in case you’re wondering). For a westerner, this is indeed very strange. However, I do happily accept that this is the way things are done here, and having previously eaten crocodile, springbok and kudu, I do look forward to sampling camel on my next visit. 

The second strange sight, again courtesy of street vendors, is the casual kerbside selling of petrol. I’ll capitalise that for those who perhaps are not wearing their glasses, or think I have made an error – CASUALLY SELLING PETROL IN THE STREETS! Many people make a living by selling cheap petrol – decanting it from large plastic containers into empty Coke bottles, juice bottles, etc. and all of this happens under the hot Tunisian sun. I am not talking about a handful of people providing this service. The streets are filled with them. The situation has arisen due to fuel being abundant and cheap in neighbouring Libya, however the danger of selling flammables openly on the streets (in thin plastic jugs!) seems to be something no-one has taken into consideration. One does wonder if the Health & Safety Department here in Tunisia is closed for holidays – permanently!

The evening saw a return to our hotel where, before dinner, I took a swim in the pool conveniently located outside the patio-style door of my room. What a decadent way to spend my time! The JAM gang (Jules, Andy and Moncef) met up again later for our meal, where I was promised, “Tunisian music”. As a musician, I know only too well how lifeless and soulless some of these hotel acts can be, and thus I came to wonder what fresh musical hell I would be exposed to. Thankfully, a little two-piece combo called Metise’s began to play and I must say, they were very good. Thank goodness – now I could concentrate on the food!

Our meal began with starters, consisting of green Tunisian-style vegetables, humous, prawns, sliced salmon, aubergine, and yogurt. In what can only be described as a foodie’s dream scenario, the second course consisted of chicken leg, king prawn, kalamari, octopus, fried shrimp, and fish. Just as we were catching our breath, along came the main course – fillet steak. A desert of chocolate cake and mini fruits rounded off the proceedings. Anyone who was in any doubt as to whether Tunisian hospitality and cuisine were up to scratch, let me reassure you now – you will not find any fault, in this respect. 

Until its discovery by tourists in the late 60’s, Tunisia was relatively unknown as a leisure destination. This part, the southern island of Djerba, was simply a holiday attraction for Tunisians. However, around 1968 the British began to use the island as a getaway. This in turn alerted the world to the delights Tunisia has to offer, and the tourism gates were open. More recently, with the onset of the Arab spring a few years ago and the resultant problems it brought to the region, neighbouring Libya has added to the population and commerce of the country, with 1.5 million displaced (but wealthy) Libyans now living in Tunisia.  

Unfortunately for this burgeoning holiday mecca, the tourism industry came close to a complete grinding halt in 2015, after two terrorist attacks were carried out on tourists. As a result, the UK took immediate action. All UK travel operators were ordered by the Home Office to cease flights to the country, reducing UK flights to Tunisia from 79 per week to just five, and these five continued simply because they were run by Tunis Air. UK travellers who thought about travelling to the country were faced with a dilemma, in that if they ignored home office advice and insisted on travelling to Tunisia, they would be unable to obtain travel insurance. It was a very difficult time, but I am pleased that this travel ban was lifted in August 2017.

Day 4 (Thursday)

The Sahara is indeed an amazing place. The vastness of it really hits home once you stop for a moment and make a 360-degree rotation, realising that as far as the eye can see, there is……….. nothing. Nothing that is, but sand, several sand dunes, more sand, and even more nothing! People do drive out here, but the thought of breaking down… I do wonder if my AA cover would be of any use here? I hope I never need to find out.

Alongside today’s shoot, I experienced a close encounter with a Fennec (fox), cradling it for a photo, before descending on Onk Jmel, the official Star Wars site – a place where us overgrown children can immerse ourselves in a make-believe world, on a real film set. We took several photos here, hoping for something we could use for the album.

The remainder of the day was spent primarily making the final part of the journey back to Tunis in a somewhat relaxed manner, in preparation for our flight home the following morning. This leg of our trip took us through Metlaoui, the hottest inland area in the country, and later we stopped off at the holy city of Kairouan, which boasts over 200 mosques and is considered the capital of the Ottoman Empire. A wonderful lunch was provided for us at the 5-star Kasbah hotel, and we eventually arrived in Tunis for our last evening.

Overall, the trip was fantastic – three guys with a very similar sense of humour, eating well, sourcing great locations for photo shoots, meeting the locals, and all in a fabulous country which has everything – sun, sea, history, architecture, modern amenities, various sporting and leisure activities, friendly people, and so much more.

I strongly suggest you visit Tunisia. It is without doubt, a most beautiful country, with something for everyone. Believe me – you won’t be disappointed.

Words: Andy Kyriacou

Pictures: Jules Annan